FRIENDS OF THE ALASKAN MALAMUTE CLUB
CANINE PREGNANCY
Having puppies at home can be a beautiful and exciting experience if things go right and you are prepared. It can become a nightmare if things go wrong which cause the death of part or even all of a litter or if a difficult birthing endangers the life of the mother dog (the bitch).
Responsible pet owners are aware of the pet overpopulation problem and the huge number of unwanted pets which are destroyed each year. We do not recommend that the novice pet owner breed their dogs or cats. If you choose to go ahead and breed your pet please think about who will take care of the offspring and consider neutering her a couple of months after the litter is weaned.
We recommend that, prior to breeding, purebred dogs be screened for any inherited traits known to exist in their breed. Keep in mind that most pet owners do not make money when they breed their purebred dog. If you want your children to see the miracle of birth please call our office to borrow a video tape.
The gestation of dogs is about 63 days (60-68). Record the date(s) that your dog was bred and calculate the range of days that she is due to whelp (give birth). Pregnancy can usually be confirmed by palpation (touch) or ultrasound at four weeks. There is no reliable way to determine the exact number of puppies. A close estimate of the number of fetuses can be made by x-ray in the last two weeks of pregnancy. X-rays may be advised for small breeds since they can have trouble giving birth (dystocia).
For the novice breeder, we advise that the bitch be examined by a veterinarian at four weeks after breeding to determine if the dog is pregnant, to answer your questions, to check the dog's general condition and discuss preparation for whelping. We will help you with questions such as how to make a whelping box, where to have the puppies and what to do if problems occur.
The bitch's diet should be a good quality adult stage commercial dog food during pregnancy. Providing she is not obese, the bitch should be given all the food she wants, especially in the second half of pregnancy. The bitch's diet should be switched from adult to puppy food on the day the puppies are born and continued until the pups are weaned. This will provide her with the extra nutrients (especially calcium) she will need. Do not give calcium supplements or calcium rich food during gestation.
A whelping box should be prepared at least a week before the pups are due and placed in a quiet part of the house. An inexpensive box can be made from heavy cardboard or for large dogs a plastic child's wading pool. The sides should be high enough to keep the puppies in and low enough that the bitch can step in without jumping . It should have plenty of room for mom to lie down and stretch out with room left over for the pups, but not so big that they will get lost. Line the bottom of the box with absorbent towels or sheets on top of newspapers. The birthing process will be messy with fluid and blood. Encourage the bitch to explore the box and spend time in it. You may want to play with her and feed her treats in her box so she feels comfortable with it. Have the materials listed below on hand for the whelping:
1. Clean rags or towels 2. Hot water bottle or heating pad. 3. Karo syrup 4. Scissors 5. Dental floss or heavy thread 6. Betadine solution or 2% iodine solution, (those are solutions not soaps).
Several days before whelping the bitch may exhibit nesting behavior, searching for a place to have the pups and carrying "nesting" material around in her mouth. The last day or two you may note, a decreased appetite, panting and anxiousness. In the last 24 hours there is a drop in rectal temperature from normal (101.0-102.5) to below 100.0. It is about 99.0 just before labor begins. If labor does not start within 24 hours of the sudden temperature drop, then a cesarean section may be needed. Monitor the bitchÕs rectal temperature twice a day with a human rectal thermometer during the last week .
The bitch will go into her box when whelping begins if she feels it is a safe, familiar and comfortable place. The area should be kept free of unnecessary noise and visitors. Once abdominal contractions begin (tightening of the belly muscles and straining as though trying to defecate) the first pup should come out within one hour. Subsequent pups should arrive within one hour of each other. Sometimes the bitch will take a break and stop pushing for up to two hours in the middle of delivering a large litter. However, straining or pushing for longer than 30 minutes for any individual puppy is too long. Breach positioned pups are not abnormal.
If a pup emerges part way and is not fully out within one minute it may be necessary to help pull it out. One person should hold the bitches head while the other grasps the pup with a towel and gently but firmly pulls it out. After the pup comes out it may be still covered with the amniotic sac and attached to the bitch by the umbilical cord. The bitch should tear off the sac, chew through the cord and then lick the pup clean. If the bitch does not immediately do this you will need to help. Tear off the sac using a towel to grasp it, vigorously rub the pup to dry it and stimulate it to start breathing. Be sure the pup is breathing regularly before proceeding further. Cut the cord one to two inches from the puppies belly (not too close !), apply betadine to the cut end of the cord and tie a knot around it with thread or floss if there is any bleeding. The placenta is attached to the other end of the umbilical cord. It is usually expelled at or soon after the birth or may be pulled out by the bitch. Often you can help remove it by applying slow steady traction to the cut end of the chord for several minutes. Dogs eat the placenta to keep the nest clean, but it is just as well removed and thrown away since it may cause indigestion and diarrhea. As the pups come out encourage them to nurse. Nursing, in addition to nourishing the pups, causes the release of a hormone that helps in milk production and contraction of the uterus.
Call the VET to set up a time to examine the bitch and pups several hours after labor is over (or the next morning) to assess their condition and to make sure all the pups have been delivered. An oxytocin hormone injection may be given at this time to stimulate uterine contractions which help "clean out" the uterus. The puppies will be checked for congenital defects and vigor.
During the first few days check frequently to be sure the pups are not under mom or "lost" in a corner. Small or weak pups may need help getting to and attached to a nipple. They may need protection from stronger pups that would push them off. It is not necessary to supplement the pups unless mom does not have normal milk production or the litter is very large ( over 8 pups). If a pup does get lost or is not strong enough to suckle it may become cold and/or its blood sugar may drop dangerously low. You can warm a pup by holding it close to you or using a heating pad on low . If weak and not eating, give it karo syrup (mixed 50:50 with water) using an eye dropper, after the puppy is warm. It is common for some puppies to die in the first few days, especially if it is a large litter.
Breeds that need dew claw removal or tail docking should have this done at three to five days. Very large breed are done at three days and very small breeds at five days.
Check the bitch's mammary glands daily for signs of infection such as redness or firm, lumpy swelling. Refusal of the puppies to nurse may be a sign of infected milk (mastitis). If mom is getting scratched, trim the puppies nails.
The bitch and pups should be provided with medicine for roundworms every two weeks starting at four (4) weeks of age.
Most pups can start eating a gruel of puppy chow soaked in warm water and blended at four to five weeks and fully weaned at six to eight weeks. For ideal socialization the puppies should not be adopted out before eight weeks of age.
Puppies are given their first vaccines at six weeks of age.
